For over a century, the world of cosmetics and skincare has seen remarkable transformations. Have you ever wondered how the products adorning your vanity, with their precise effects and enchanting fragrances, have evolved?
From sun protection that initially served a different purpose to the birth of the very first face creams, we will explore the contributions of aesthetic masters and medical pioneers who crafted these artistic marvels.
From Estée Lauder and Shiseido to Pond’s and Nivea, renowned brands have played a pivotal role in the development and innovation of these “first-ever” products, shaping the landscape of beauty history. Join us as we open the doors of time and relive the mysterious legends of the cosmetics world.
The First “Cream” in History Was Originally a Makeup Remover
Can you imagine that the earliest face cream wasn’t designed for anti-aging or skin whitening but was closely related to repair and makeup removal? In ancient Greece, physician Galen mixed beeswax, plant oils, and floral water to create the world’s first face cream.
During that time, face creams were used to aid gladiators in healing their wounds, bearing a striking resemblance to the precursor of today’s Fresh Creme Ancienne. However, these early cold cream formulations were far from perfect and prone to instability.
As time progressed, in 1902, Madame Helena created VALAZE Cream, where “Valaze” is Hungarian for “heavenly treasure.” Unfortunately, no modern-day versions of VALAZE Cream are currently available.
In 1907, Pond’s introduced cold cream and snowflake cream, both of which served as makeup removers. In 1911, the German brand Nivea developed a water-in-oil cream with a stable formula, now recognized as the iconic blue jar cream we all know.
Today, when we think of vintage face creams still readily available, it’s often the classic Pond’s Cold Cream and Nivea Creme (in the blue tin).
In 1907, Pond’s chemist Willian K. Sallbridge created the formulas for snowflake cream and cold cream, marking a significant leap in the skincare world. These formulations, beloved by consumers, were even sold together with instructions to use them in the morning and at night—perhaps the precursor to the “AM and PM” skincare routine?
Pond’s Cold Cream remains available to this day, rich in mineral oils, providing moisturization, and favored by those with dry skin. However, individuals with oily skin may find it a bit heavy and opt for a double cleanse.
On the other hand, Nivea Creme (in the blue tin) boasts a simple ingredient list, used to seal in and maintain skin’s moisture. Its primary components include liquid paraffin, and microcrystalline wax, along with ingredients like lanolin alcohol and glycerin, offering a high occlusive effect. While it may not be the top choice for facial creams, it’s perfect for moisturizing hands, feet, joints, and nail cuticles, delivering powerful hydration.
Cosmetic Water Designed by Aesthetic Masters
When we hear the name “Lutens,” it’s commonly associated with a sophisticated fragrance brand known for its dark design aesthetics and uniquely named perfumes. But have you ever wondered about the brand’s founder and her connection to the world’s very first cosmetic water?
In 1897, Shiseido entered the cosmetics industry, introducing a product called “Red Honey Dew Serum”. This is the documented earliest appearance of a cosmetic water product. Since the inception of Red Honey Dew Serum, it has undergone multiple iterations, with its packaging continuously evolving.
One of the most recognizable packaging designs dates back to 1997 when Serge Lutens was working for the company. He designed a “skyscraper” square bottle that bears a striking resemblance to the “skyscraper” series of perfumes by Shiseido, grabbing everyone’s attention.
As a side note, the inspiration behind the “skyscraper” series comes from the classic 1927 German science-fiction film “Metropolis.” The film foresaw various breakthroughs and revolutions between machines and humans in a future class-based society, reflecting the industrial advancements and social changes that we see today.
Recently, Red Honey Dew Serum has released a limited edition packaging to celebrate its 150th anniversary, reigniting the charm of a century-old Shiseido.
Since its formula update in 2019, Red Honey Dew Serum now primarily features lightweight hydrating ingredients like sodium hyaluronate, L-arginine HCL, and PCA. However, it does contain a notable amount of alcohol, so individuals with sensitive skin should use it sparingly.
The First Serum for Most People
Estée Lauder’s Little Brown Bottle, often humorously referred to as the “cash cow” of the Estée Lauder Group, made its debut in 1982 and is the earliest recorded product defined as a “serum.”
The Little Brown Bottle Serum, after seven generations of innovation, is beloved for its refreshing and silky feel on the skin. It also incorporates skin repair technology related to the biological clock and “circadian rhythms,” making it a star product in the Estée Lauder lineup.
Estée Lauder herself, the woman behind the Estée Lauder beauty empire, was originally a Jewish descendant born in a destitute slum amidst piles of garbage.
Her journey into the world of beauty began at her uncle John’s beauty salon, where the seed for Estée Lauder’s cosmetics empire was first planted. Her uncle was well-versed in chemistry and had gained local renown for his skincare oils.
During this time, Estée Lauder began to realize that beauty was not just about the final makeup look but also about the condition of the skin before makeup application. This conviction strengthened her resolve to embark on the path of skincare that would make the world more beautiful.
Now, after the verification of customers and time, Estée Lauder’s Little Brown Bottle is an essence for almost all kinds of people and skin quality, one bottle is sold every 15 seconds around the world.
Sunscreen that Helps You Tan
Today, applying sunscreen is an essential part of our daily skincare routine to protect our skin from sunburn, darkening, and premature aging. However, you might be surprised to learn that sunscreen initially had a different purpose – helping you get a tan.
It is said that the world’s first sunscreen appeared in 1928, produced by the cosmetics company Reckitt Benckiser. It reportedly contained active sunscreen ingredients like benzyl salicylate and benzyl cinnamate. Of course, modern sunscreen products have since replaced these ingredients.
Interestingly, in the following years, the popularity of sunbathing greatly contributed to the development of the sunscreen industry. Having tanned skin symbolized more time spent by the seaside, enjoying nature, and playing in the sun on the beach. It also implied better economic status and higher social standing.
Additionally, a dark and handsome wheatish complexion was considered rare among Caucasians, making individuals with such skin tone stand out in a crowd. This aesthetic preference persisted into modern times.
However, most Caucasians have non-pigmentary skin that doesn’t tan easily but is susceptible to sunburn. This led to the development of tanning aids that protected the skin from sunburn while promoting tanning.
In 1935, Garnier introduced one of the earliest tanning oil products, Ambre Solaire, designed to help the skin tan more easily without getting sunburned.
The evolution of cosmetics and skincare is a testament to human creativity and ingenuity. Over the past century, these products have transitioned from their historical origins to meet the changing needs and desires of consumers. As we appreciate the rich tapestry of cosmetic history, we are reminded of the relentless pursuit of beauty and self-care throughout the ages.